Retinol has been praised for years as the ultimate anti-ageing and acne solution, but a leading Asian dermatologist, Dr Teo Wan Lin, now says it may be more harmful than helpful. After a decade of treating patients, she noticed that retinoids caused unpredictable irritation, especially in people with skin of colour, who are prone to post-inflammatory pigmentation.

Instead of healing dark spots, retinol often triggered more inflammation, damaging the skin barrier. Dr Teo warns that skincare should never rely on controlled irritation, because peeling and burning are not signs of progress.

She now recommends plant-based actives like bakuchiol, papain, berberine, and bromelain, which offer similar benefits without irritation. These ingredients support the skin microbiome, making the skin healthier and more resilient.

According to Dr Teo, the future of skincare lies in microbiome-friendly, botanical formulas, not harsh treatments that require rest days or recovery cycles.

Her message is simple: Skincare should heal-not hurt.