This year, a quieter menswear revolution took shape — one that moved beyond functional staples to embrace emotional nuance, historical references, and craft-led expression. The GenNext designers moved away from minimalism without tipping into costume, offering garments that were expressive, yet wearable.

Abhishek Shinde, under his label Abhichiq, offered a Sicilian summer through Ciao — a collection of handwoven, block-printed separates layered with embroidery and nostalgic tailoring. Oversized blazers, striped shackets, and Bermudas hinted at ease but were grounded in artisanal polish. His approach balanced playfulness with longevity, creating resort wear with structure.

Yash Patil, of That Antiquepiece, drew from archival photographs of the Rana queens of Nepal, blending moulded silhouettes, corsetry and ballroom drama. Though presented as womenswear, the construction-heavy garments (a visual treat of rich detailing with braids, jewels and sheer textiles) shared a meticulous, sculptural quality often aligned with contemporary menswear’s move towards androgyny and theatricality.

Somya Lochan’s label Quarter took a more introspective route. Her collection The Dichotomy of Loss was born from a social experiment on grief, translated into garments made from Tanchoi silk and Himroo brocade. Embellished with handmade brass buttons and beaded embroidery, the pieces — boxy jackets, flared trousers, and padded coats — were gender-fluid in structure and emotional in tone.

Together, these designers challenged the binary of menswear as either utilitarian or ostentatious. Their work suggested a middle ground: introspective, referential, and unafraid to be emotionally resonant.